Why Every Public Bench in Dublin Is Somehow in the Wind
There is a particular kind of optimism involved in sitting on a bench in Dublin. You see it. You think, that’ll do. You imagine five quiet minutes. Maybe a sandwich. …
The Luas Will Humiliate You (A Local Guide to Dublin’s Tram Etiquette)
I used to think the Luas was foolproof. A tram. On rails. Comes, goes, everyone gets on, everyone gets off. Like a polite, organised snake. Then I started bringing tourists …
Hidden Art and Murals You’ll Walk Past and Never See (Unless You’re With a Local)
I used to tell people Dublin was a city you had to look sideways at. Straight on, it gives you the obvious things. Big doors. Big pubs. Big history. You …
Dublin Bus Stops: Where Time Goes to Die (And Occasionally to Chat)
If you ever want to understand Dublin, stand at a bus stop for twenty minutes.Any one will do. O’Connell Street, College Green, Donnybrook, doesn’t matter. Time stops working there. The …
Phoenix Park Will Trick You Into a 12km Walk
Phoenix Park is gorgeous and sneaky. It looks like a quick wander and then the horizon keeps moving and your toes start writing letters to management. Here’s the version that …
The Dead Zoo, the Live Pigeons, and Why Dublin’s Best Museum Still Smells of Varnish
If you grew up in Dublin, chances are you were marched through the Dead Zoo at least once in primary school. Half the class buzzing with the idea of seeing …
The River Liffey: Beautiful, Brown, and Surprisingly Full of Traffic Cones
People love the idea of the Liffey. Postcard shots. Reflections. Bridges lit up at night. Looks lovely when you’re walking beside it and don’t have to think about what’s actually …
Tourist Questions That Broke My Brain (And One That Made Me Cry a Bit)
You get used to daft questions when you’re a tour guide. After a few years, you stop flinching. People are lost, they’re tired, they’re full of jet lag and bad …
Why Dubliners Don’t Say Hello — And What We Say Instead
You’ll notice it if you’re not from here. No one really says “hello.” Not properly. Not like in other cities where people seem genuinely delighted to see you. In Dublin, …
The Famine Sculptures, the Zombie Film, and the American Who Asked for a Selfie
I used to include the Famine Memorial on maybe one in every five tours. Depends on the group. If they looked like they could handle something heavier than anecdotes about …